Development of Facial Cosmetic Formulations Using Microbial Levan in Association with Plant-Derived Compounds Using Simple Lattice Design

HIGHLIGHTS

• A levan-based formulation composed of Aloe vera and avocado oil was development.

• Biocosmetic showed antioxidant activity, retention capacity and good spreadability.

• Levan-based formulation was efficiently modeled within the simplex design space.

• Cosmetic formulations showed great stability and pH compatible with skin.

Abstract

The cosmetics industry searches for new products with sustainable, natural and non-toxic characteristics. Levan is a microbial exopolysaccharide composed of fructose units with β-2,6-glycoside bonds. Due to its biological properties, levan has a wide range of applications in cosmetics and pharmaceuticals industry. The effects of levan can be improved by its combination with biocompatible actives such as plant-derived compounds and vitamins resulting in a multifunctional cosmetic formulation. Thus, the aim of this study was to develop a new biocosmetic gel-anionic type containing 1 % of levan and plant-derived compounds, such as Aloe vera extract and avocado oil and vitamin E, using simplex lattice mixtures design. According to the statistical analyses, the concentrations to obtain a cosmetic with maximum antioxidant activity (76%), hydration capacity (98.37%) and spreadability (767.30 mm²), would be 10% (0.1 mL) of Aloe vera, and 90% (0.9 mL) of avocado oil. Cosmeceutical formulations showed good stability and did not show phase separation or visible changes being classified as normal. The development of innovative and sustainable cosmetic formulations, with natural, vegan and non-toxic molecules is of great importance for cosmetic industry.

Keywords:
Levan; Aloe vera; Avocado oil; Antioxidant; Simplex lattice design.