Stability and Sensory Evaluation of an Innovative Antiaging Formulation Based on Marine Ingredients

HIGHLIGHTS

Marine environment has been an important source of cosmetic ingredients.

Caviar extract (2%) has scavenged 10.9% ± 0.58 of DPPH radical.

Ca-alginate beads has been obtained successfully.

Formulation showed good stability and sensory acceptance.

Abstract

The high consumption of antiaging cosmetics represents an outstanding opportunity for the development of new processes and attractive products in the cosmetic industry. Stability studies and sensory analyses are critical steps in the development process and production chain. Here we present a potential antiaging cosmetic product with innovative sensory characteristics. Caviar extract antioxidant properties were firstly evaluated by the DPPH method since it is an important mechanism against skin aging. Ca-alginate beads containing 2% of caviar extract and 0.2% of black pigment were prepared to obtain spheres similar to caviar. The beads were incorporated in a gel phase (hydroxyethylcellulose 2.5%) containing 3% of dimethylaminoethanol. Stability was evaluated in different storage conditions (sunlight exposure, 5 ± 2 °C, 37 ± 2 °C and r.t.) through the parameters: appearance, color and odor, pH (6-7), density (0.98-1.14 g.mL^-1), centrifugation and average size. After approval by the Committee for Ethics in Research (n° 3.503.061), 30 volunteers tested the new formulation and answered a questionnaire. At 2%, caviar extract was able to scavenge 10.9% ± 0.58 of DPPH radical. Formulations showed good stability after 90 days, even considering the average size (7.47 ± 0.41 - 8.4 ± 0.65 mm²). 90% of the sensory test participants reported that they would buy the new product. Therefore, the new product developed demonstrates a promising potential as an attractive cosmetic product.

Keywords:
formulation development; DMAE; sensory analysis; polymers; Ca-alginate beads

GRAPHICAL ABSTRACT