Abstract
This work aimed to characterize the production system of artisan cheese makers in Currais Novos, in the state of Rio Grande do Norte (RN), thereby assessing the existence of a production standard and helping to create a region with a recognized geographical indication. Eleven artisanal cheese makers were visited, and a structured interview was conducted. The results showed that all the cheese makers work with raw milk; they all have a health record, and 64% need to be aware of the specific legislation. They are considered family cheese makers, as the owner or spouse comprises 82% of the production. They have been in business for less than 11 years (54%), and all of them use industrial rennet and add boiling water and salt to make the Coalho cheese. All the establishments use a wood-fired oven to cook the butter cheese in stainless steel pots (75%), and stir it with wooden spatulas (50%). With the right policies and investment, there is room for improvement in the cheese-making system, possible growth, and recognition of the activity as traditional and peculiar.
Keywords: Coalho cheese; Formalization; Good manufacturing practices; Promotion; Regional product; Safe food
HIGHLIGHTS
Artisanal cheese makers in RN/BR may be encouraged to formalize their production and marketing
There is a need for public policies and investments to standardize the products
Currais Novos, in Brazil, maintains the characteristics and regionalization of artisanal cheeses
1 Introduction
Cheese production in the state of Rio Grande do Norte (RN) represents an economic alternative for conserving and maximizing milk production, especially for small producers. It is the main source of income for many families or complements the income of others, generating jobs and valuing local culture (Menezes, 2011).
The municipality of Currais Novos is located in the Seridó region (RN), in Brazil, which has 864.349 km2 and around 45,000 inhabitants (Instituto Brasileiro de Geografia e Estatística, 2022). It has a cattle herd of 12,873 head, producing 5,715,000 liters of milk in 2020. It is part of the state's largest dairy basin, the Seridó Region, which has 264,853 head of cattle. The Rio Grande do Norte has a cattle herd of 1,032,847 head, producing 290,768,000 liters of milk in 2020 (Instituto de Defesa e Inspeção Agropecuária do Rio Grande do Norte, 2022). Currais Novos, like the Seridó region, has a long tradition of making cheeses, mainly artisanal curds and butter.
According to the Rio Grande do Norte Agricultural Defense and Inspection Institute (Instituto de Defesa e Inspeção Agropecuária do Rio Grande do Norte - IDIARN), 36 milk and dairy products processing units and dairies are registered with the Animal Products Inspection Service, including two cheese producers in Currais Novos. Rio Grande do Norte's legislation deals with producing and selling artisanal cheeses and butter in the state, State Law No. 10.230 of 07 August 2017, known as the Nivardo Mello Law. According to this law, artisanal cheese is characterized by cheese produced with whole, fresh, and raw milk, respecting traditional, cultural, and regional methods. A cheese dairy is considered artisanal when it is located on a rural property with a floor area of less than 250 m2 and processes up to 2,000 liters of milk daily. However, only one company in the state is registered with the Inspection Service as an artisanal cheese maker (Instituto de Defesa e Inspeção Agropecuária do Rio Grande do Norte, 2022). Producers face some difficulties complying with the inspection bodies, such as a lack of knowledge of the specific legislation for artisanal cheese, a lack of capital and training.
In regions that produce cheese, especially artisanal cheese, the consolidation of the cheese-making activity has a strong impact on improving the quality of life of local communities. However, this development will only achieve safety, as well as standardized, higher quality, and more competitive products, by attracting consumers and consolidating the producing regions. In addition, the products need to comply with current legislation, making them safe for consumers and enabling them to reach a wider market (Fernandes et al., 2011).
There is a need to carry out comprehensive research to characterize the production of Coalho and butter cheeses in cheese factories in the municipality of Currais Novos and to help identify a pattern in the production of cheeses that are peculiar to the region because, together with butter from the land, these are the products that stand out in the municipality's cheese factories. Gathering information on the processing aspects of the cheeses produced in the municipality is an important step towards defining the production process for local cheeses, linking the municipality's name to a product with its manufacturing characteristics and potentially helping to create a region with a recognized geographical indication, the Seridó Region. Consolidating geographical indications is a tool that protects and promotes traditional products linked to certain territories (Fontenele, 2013).
In the state of Minas Gerais (MG), there are some works published by Pinto (2004), Saraiva et al. (2020), and Araújo (2004) that diagnosed and characterized the production system of artisanal minas cheese in the regions of Serro, Serra Geral, and Araxá, respectively, which are major producers of artisanal cheese in the country. Nassu et al. (2003) surveyed cheese factories in RN, which produce over 10 kg/day. There is a lack of studies characterizing cheese makers in the municipality of Currais Novos. Therefore, this article aimed to characterize the production system of the artisanal cheese makers in Currais Novos to help create a region with a geographical indication (GI).
2 Material and methods
The research began with the identification of producers who make cheese using traditional techniques in the municipality of Currais Novos, RN, Brazil, through an active search and analysis of various sources of information, such as producer registers at the Institute for Technical Assistance and Rural Extension (Empresa de Assistência Técnica e Extensão Rural - EMATER), registers of cheese makers registered with IDIARN, research with local public agents, contact with local community organizations such as Associations, Unions and Cooperatives. In addition, research carried out by Silva et al. (2008), as well as a list of producers who had signed up to take part in the Milk and Derivatives Call for Proposals, launched by the Citizen Government project, were also included.
After identifying the existing cheese makers, 11 establishments were found to be artisanal. The stage of diagnosing their production system was carried out using visits and structured interviews during May 2022. The questionnaires were administered by a team of EMATER technicians, who could check the cheese makers on the spot and obtain information on how the companies were identified and a description of their production.
The questionnaire contained open and closed questions and was divided into six blocks: I) the owner's profile, with general identification questions such as level of education, age, and marital status; II) data on the cheese factory, covering items such as the number of workers, length of time in business and turnover; III) production of Coalho cheese, with questions relating to the recipe, health registration, the volume of milk processed and details of production; IV) butter cheese production, with some of the same questions as block III, plus items specific to butter cheese production; V) management of the activity, with questions about the items produced, the difficulties of the activity and where the products are marketed; and VI) financial management, with questions about debts and loans. The data obtained from the questions in block VI was not used in this research but will be used by the Brazilian Micro and Small Business Support Service (Serviço Brasileiro de Apoio às Micro e Pequenas Empresas - SEBRAE), the project's supporting institution.
When the cheese factories were visited, they were georeferenced by collecting their geographical coordinates using a GPS receiver, using the SIRGAS 2000 standard datum, officially adopted by the Brazilian Institute of Geography and Statistics (Instituto Brasileiro de Geografia e Estatística - IBGE) or WGS 84. The coordinates followed the UTM standard and were used to obtain geospatial information on all the properties using Google Earth Pro.
The questionnaire information was entered into a Google Forms link, generating an Excel® spreadsheet version 2013. The average and frequency of responses from the producers for each item on the form were calculated. The frequencies were expressed as percentages and descriptive statistics were used to compare them with studies on the same subject.
3 Results and discussion
3.1 Owner profile
Of the 11 cheese makers surveyed in the municipality, all of them produce Coalho cheese, four produce butter and Coalho cheese, and none produce only butter cheese (Figure 1). All the properties are located in the municipality's rural area.
Cheese makers were identified in the municipality of Currais Novos (Latitude: 6° 15' 47” South, Longitude: 36° 31' 4” West).
Nine owners (82%) are male, and two (18%) are female. This assessment differs from that of Cavalcante (2017), where most cheese makers were female and assisted by women. This may be related to the growth of the activity, which food production only accounted for the family, and now they are found to be a source of complementary or sole income.
Cheese makers are considered family businesses since 81.8% of production is carried out by the owner himself or his spouse, as Pinto (2004) observed in 55% of the artisanal cheese makers in the Serro/MG region, Saraiva et al. (2020) in 57.14% in the Serra Geral/MG region and Araújo (2004) in 70.27% in the Araxá/MG region, seeing that these regions are traditional regions in the production of artisanal cheese. The largest number of workers observed in a single cheese maker was three, corroborating the characterization of the municipality's artisanal cheese makers as family businesses.
About age, 45% of the owners are between 31 and 40, and 54% are over 41. As for their level of education, 45% had completed a high school education, 27% had incomplete primary education, and 18% had completed higher education. One owner is single, and the others are married. The level of education of the owners assessed in this study was considered to be high, with the majority (63%) having completed a high school education, which is different from the findings of Nassu et al. (2003) study, in which the majority had incomplete high school education, and those of Araújo (2004) and Pinto (2004), in which only 13.51% and 5.41% had completed a high school education, respectively. Owners with a higher level of education are generally more sensitive to the need to comply with legislation and good manufacturing practices (Santos et al., 2017).
Half of the interviewees are members of associations, a lower figure than that found by Saraiva et al. (2020) and Moreno (2013), where all producers participated in associations or cooperatives. Participation in this type of social organization is important for promoting the transfer of information and strengthening of producer groups.
A third of the owners (30%) had taken part in some training in the area of milk and dairy products in the last two years, which is higher than Mesquita, Rocha & Carneiro (2010), where no producers had taken part in training, and similar to Araújo (2004), where 43.2% had taken part in the training. Participation in training directly impacts the quality of the products, as it helps raise awareness of the adjustments needed by cheese makers, the use of good manufacturing practices, and care in acquiring raw materials.
A worrying fact was that the majority (64%) are unaware of the Nivardo Mello Law, which deals with the production and commercialization of artisanal cheeses and butter in the state, one of the few states in the country to have its legislation for artisanal products, enabling the registration of traditional establishments without major changes to the unique way of making the products. This percentage is higher than that Santos et al. (2017) found in Uberaba/MG (46%). Publicizing and raising awareness of the legislation is important so that more cheese makers seek health registration.
3.2 Profile of the cheese makers
This study found 11 cheese makers producing curd cheese and butter in Currais Novos. Only four were found in the study by Silva et al. (2008), showing a growth in the municipality's activity.
Only one company is in a formal situation, with a Cadastro Nacional de Pessoa Jurídica (CNPJ) and classified as a Microenterprise (ME). The owner is the only worker in most cheese factories (73%). Ten cheese factories have never operated elsewhere, and one has moved to a location within the municipality. Regarding time in business, 54% of the cheese factories have been operating for less than 11 years, as shown in Figure 2, and 91% have continued operating. Regarding turnover, 55% of the cheese factories have an annual turnover of up to R$60.000,00, and 44% more than that.
We found that most of the cheese makers in the municipality have been in business for less than 11 years, less than Santos et al. (2017), Pinto (2004), and Araújo (2004). The cheese makers who make both types of cheese have been on the market for longer. The absolute majority have never stopped their activities. Their long experience in cheese making means they have a consolidated and traditional production method, making it more difficult to make improvements without modifying the process and more resistant to innovations.
These are informal establishments, and none are registered with the health inspection body, even though specific legislation exists. The same result was obtained by Vidal (2011) and Nassu et al. (2003), who found 90% of informal establishments. This data is worrying, as acquiring health registration gives the product greater reliability and a hygiene and health guarantee and opens up the market. Only two cheese makers interviewed have applied for registration and are in the process of doing it. The majority are unaware of the legislation, so they believe it is impossible to work with raw milk, for example. Many need the capital to adapt their facilities to the requirements of the law.
Concerning all the cheese makers, the activity began with the owner, and in 82% of them, the owner or his spouse is the one who makes the Coalho cheese, and in 100% of the cheese makers, in the case of butter cheese. The recipe for making the cheese was acquired by a cheese maker in 73% of the establishments, adapted from other cheese makers. Seven cheese makers give the product a specific name. The eleven cheese makers do not have an official health inspection (100%), and 82% do not have their milk analyzed.
All the cheese makers use raw milk to make their cheeses, as reported by Mesquita et al. (2009), Freitas Filho et al. (2009) and Santos et al. (2008). There are also some risks to consumer health because the cheese makers use raw milk without hygienic and sanitary control of the herd and facilities, as they are not inspected. Pathogenic microorganisms can be transmitted to the consumer, as pasteurization does not take place as an extra guarantee of the product's safety. Nassu et al. (2001) observed that 85% of the 57 cheese makers studied in Ceará also used raw milk, and Nassu et al. (2003) found that 80% of them used unpasteurized milk. Pasteurization of the milk used to make artisanal cheeses is controversial, as many believe it influences flavor and texture due to the absence of specific microorganisms that are inactivated during the heating process. For this reason, the legislation on artisanal cheeses contemplates the use of raw milk but with control of the health of the herds, especially regarding brucellosis and tuberculosis, and the adoption of good farming practices.
Araújo et al. (2009) conducted a study with local consumers in the Currais Novos/RN municipality. They showed that the level of acceptance of cheeses produced from raw milk was higher than that of cheeses produced from pasteurized milk, demonstrating the local population's preference for traditionally produced cheeses. On the other hand, Vidal (2011) researched artisanal and industrial Coalho cheese consumed in Natal/RN and found no difference in product acceptability.
Regarding the origin of the raw materials used by the cheese makers, 45% of them use only their milk, with a daily average of 164 liters processed in total, 82% of which comes from the municipality where the cheese maker’s establishment is located. In addition, 18% of the dairies use mixed sources of milk, some of which they produce themselves and some from third-party suppliers, while 27% of the dairies source their milk only from suppliers.
Most cheese makers work with their milk, totaling 650 liters per day, with the highest production being 160 L/day, a result similar to that of Vidal (2011), comprising 50% of them, and Santos et al. (2017), with 67% of the cheese makers. Thirty-five suppliers send milk to the municipality's cheese factories, totaling 2035 L/day, with the largest supplier delivering 220 L/day. Therefore, although most cheese makers work with their milk, the largest volume of milk processed at the cheese makers comes from suppliers. The Minas Gerais artisanal cheese legislation establishes that artisanal cheese production must be carried out on the property where the milk originates. At the same time, the Nivardo Mello Law allows the cheese maker to share the processing of milk from other properties. The daily average of milk processed was around 164 L, similar to Santos et al. (2017), with an average of 100 L/day, but lower than Saraiva et al. (2020), with an average of 300 L/day. However, one cheese maker works above average, at around 1.200 L/day. All the cheese makers analyzed qualify as “artisanal” according to Law 10.230/2017, as they are located on rural properties and process up to 2.000 liters of milk per day.
It was also noted that in 62% of the cheese makers, the supplier is responsible for delivering the milk to the cheese makers, or the cheese maker picks it up (37%). The milk is transported in cans in 91% of cases and is not refrigerated.
It was observed that most cheese makers need to check the quality of the raw material that arrives at the establishment, as only 18.1% carry out analyses on the milk. When they carry out these analyses, they only measure them using acidity and density tests when the milk is received at the milk dairy. This result is similar to that found in Santos et al. (2008) and Vidal (2011), with 25% of the analyses, but lower than that of Nassu et al. (2003), who found that 33% of establishments carried out density analyses. An increase in acidity indicates that the milk has not been refrigerated or milked without proper hygiene conditions. On the other hand, changes in density are associated with fraud, i.e., adding water to milk to obtain a higher yield (Vargas et al., 2019). This is a worrying factor, as milk containing water loses quality and reduces the fat content, which is responsible for the cheese's softness, color, consistency, and final flavor (Nassu et al., 2001).
The milk that reaches the cheese makers is not refrigerated in 100% of them, as observed by Santos et al. (2008) and Nassu et al. (2003), and in 78.9%, according to Nassu et al. (2001). To the Nivardo Mello Law, milk processing must begin within two hours of milking, allowing it to be cooled for up to 24 hours in individual or collective cooling tanks or frozen in a freezer (Rio Grande do Norte, 2018). Therefore, milk does not need to be refrigerated if processed within two hours of milking.
The need for more criteria in selecting raw materials results in a product of dubious quality, making it even more necessary to carry out microbiological and physical-chemical studies on the finished product.
All cheese makers use raw milk to make their cheeses. For Coalho cheese, the milk used is skimmed in 18.1% of the establishments, while for butter, it is skimmed in all of them.
3.3 Production of coalho cheese
According to Nivardo Mello Law (Rio Grande do Norte, 2018), Coalho cheese is made by receiving the milk, weighing/filtering the milk, adding the rennet, coagulating, cutting the curds, resting, desorbing, heating the mass, salting, shaping, and pressing.
State legislation does not require cheeses to be matured before being sold, as in MG and federal legislation. Federal legislation stipulates that the production of cheeses from raw milk, with a maturing period of fewer than 60 days, is restricted to cheese factories located in regions with a registered or traditionally recognized geographical indication and on properties certified as free or controlled for tuberculosis and brucellosis by the health defense agency. In addition, technical and scientific studies must be carried out to prove the quality and safety of the product (Brasil, 2013).
Based on the answers to the questionnaire, a sequence for making Coalho cheese with a few variations was possible. However, the questionnaire did not include information on the milk filtration process.
Regarding aspects related to the processing of rennet cheese, all cheese makers interviewed use only the industrial type of rennet. The average coagulation time is 41 minutes, with 20 minutes to wait for desiccation. An average of 7 hours is spent on the pressing process, without any treatment after the press; the cheeses are all rested under refrigeration, and the dough is treated with hot water and salt. Other parameters that differentiate the manufacturing process between artisan establishments are described in Table 1.
The milk arrives at the cheese factory and is placed to coagulate in plastic containers. Then, the industrial rennet is added. This is used by all the cheese makers, with variations in the commercial brand and how it is used, as was found by Fontenele (2013) and Vidal (2011). It coagulates for an average of 41 minutes, the same average time obtained by Fontenele (2013) and Cavalcante (2017).
The curd is then cut and drained through plastic sieves for approximately 20 minutes to remove the whey. All cheese makers add hot or boiled water to the dough to facilitate the aggregation of the clots and the removal of the whey (Cavalcante, 2017). The temperature of the water added is around 60 ºC, as Bastos et al. (2010) found in a study of cheese makers in Caicó, providing better microbiological quality. However, the water temperature is not mentioned in the questionnaire questions. Salting is done before forming or after removing the whey with refined common salt. Vidal (2011) reported that salt enhances the flavor, improves texture, and regulates milk fermentation, thus providing the ideal level of acidity, helping to remove whey, and inhibiting the development of pathogenic microorganisms.
The dough is formed using plastic or wooden molds, which are rectangular and covered with a desiccator. In Ceará, most cheese makers use round moulds (Fontenele, 2013), while in Paraíba, Pernambuco, and Alagoas states, the format is rectangular (Cavalcante, 2017). Wood is not recommended for food products because it is difficult to sanitize and facilitates the development of undesirable microorganisms.
The dough is then mechanically pressed with a stainless steel weight (72%) for a variable amount of time, on average 7 hours, and remains in the moulds for the same amount of time. After they leave the press, they do not receive any further treatment and are left to rest in the refrigerator (100%). According to Cavalcante (2017), some producers soak the cheese in heated whey to give it more flavor, a habit not shared by the interviewees.
All cheese makers package their cheeses, a result higher than the 55% of data that Freitas Filho et al. (2009) could find. Most of them (45%) use ordinary bags, 36% vacuum bags, and 18% film (18%). All material intended for direct contact with food must comply with the health legislation on materials in contact with food since substances in these materials can migrate to food, posing a health risk to the consumer (Brasil, 1999). The plastic vacuum bag prevents the food from coming into contact with the air, providing a longer shelf life and safety. By preventing contact with oxygen, it protects the cheeses from the proliferation of bacteria and fungi and prevents them from drying out. By using ordinary bags and film, there is a greater risk of product contamination. The Nivardo Mello Law allows artisanal cheeses to be sold without packaging as long as specific information such as the product variety, registration number, municipality of origin, and manufacturing and expiry dates are stamped on the piece or accompanied.
The cheese makers produce pieces of Coalho cheese of varying sizes and weights, ranging from 1 to 2 kg, with an average of 1.2 kg. The weights of the pieces evaluated in this study were 2 kg (7%), 1 kg (43%), 1.2 kg (22%), and below 0.6 kg (36%).
3.4 Butter cheese production
The production stages for butter cheese include receiving the milk, skimming, acidification, coagulation, draining, washing the mass with milk, melting the mass with bottled butter and salt, and shaping.
As far as the processing of butter cheese is concerned, all of the cheese makers interviewed to obtain their curds from the whey, and the average curdling time is 14 hours, with 8.5 hours of waiting time for draining. The volume of curd beaten at a time is an average of 26.2 kg, with a proportion of 3.95% milk added to the mass; in addition, they all reported using their plastic mould as a tool to collect the frothy cream, the heat source for heating the curd is wood, they all salt the mass and pack it in vacuum bags. The ratio between butter (L) and dough (kg) is 0.53. Other parameters that differentiate the manufacturing process between artisan establishments are described in Table 2.
Among the processes used to make butter cheese, as detailed in Table 2, all the cheese makers use skimming machines to make butter cheese. Mesquita et al. (2009) found that in the Seridó region, all the skimming machines were mechanical. The milk is placed to curdle in plastic containers, as verified by Nassu et al. (2003), or stainless steel tanks, using whey for an average of 14 hours. The coagulation of milk for making butter cheese is of the acidic type, as the whey acidifies the milk, accelerating the formation of the curd due to the presence of lactic acid and characteristic bacterial flora ( Mesquita et al., 2009).
Most curds are drained in cotton bags for an average of 8.5 hours. Then, around 26.5 kg of curd is beaten by hand for 2 hours.
Subsequently, all the cheese makers add raw skimmed milk to the dough, in the proportion of 3.95 liters of milk for every kilo of dough, thus obtaining the frothy cream, followed by stirring it for 40 minutes. The mixture of curd and milk is heated in a wood-fired oven at varying temperatures for about an hour. Mesquita, Rocha & Carneiro et al. (2010) also found that 100% of the cheese makers used wood, similar to Nassu et al. (2003), who found only one cooperative that processed the cheese using steam. Only one cheese maker collects the fat from the liquid left in the pot after removing the pasta and sells it.
The beaten curds are drained in natural cloth bags (cotton or raffia) for an average of 7.6 minutes. After this time, the drained curd returns to the pot, where it is salted. The cheese makers do not let the dough rest before the final cooking with the butter, obtained in the cheese factory using their raw materials. The butter is obtained by cooking the cream in a stainless steel or iron pot, stirring it constantly, for an average of 4 hours.
Bottle butter is added to the dough in quantities ranging from 25% to 75%, with an average of 53%, i.e., 0.53 liters of butter are added for every kilo of dough. This high variation results in differences in the product's fat content and taste. The buttered dough is stirred using a wooden spatula, similar to Mesquita, Rocha & Carneiro (2010), silicone or nylon, for around 1.5 hour, the average cooking time for the dough. There are variations in the use of high or low heat when cooking the cheese. The dough is formed immediately after cooking into plastic molds, where it remains for an average of 24 hours. The cheese is not marked with a hot iron in 75% of the cheese makers but is packaged by most establishments that use a plastic vacuum bag, as described in Table 2.
The cheese makers use varying sizes of molds to store the butter cheese, with product weights varying as follows: 0.5 kg (27%), 1 kg (18%), 2 kg±0.5 (18%), and 3.0 kg (36%).
3.5 Management of the business
In assessing the business's management, it was found that of the 11 cheese makers who were interviewed, only one was not selling at the moment, as it was a new establishment in the process of being set up.
In the year this research was carried out, the entire curd cheese and butter production was sold, totaling 38,000 kg and 43,700 kg, respectively, at an average price of R$ 23.66 per kilo. The grocery store was the main outlet for the artisanal cheeses (Table 3).
Producers cited the main difficulties in the business as acquiring raw materials, inadequate facilities in their establishments, lack of training and technical guidance, problems in pricing products, inspection by competent bodies, skilled labor, and problems with packaging.
4 Conclusion
Informal production and trade are a reality in cheese factories in the municipality of Currais Novos/RN. Difficulties in acquiring raw materials, inadequate facilities, lack of training, technical guidance, and difficulties in setting prices are some of the difficulties local producers face. There is a need for appropriate policies, investments, knowledge, and compliance with legislation, guaranteeing the supply of products that are harmless to the consumer and with a greater degree of standardization without losing the traditional and peculiar characteristics of production, as is the case in other regions that produce artisanal cheeses.
Acknowledgements
We thank the coordination for improving higher education personnel (CAPES-Brazil) for their financial support.
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Cite as:
Queiroz, S. A. V. S., Araújo, E. O. M., Sales, D. C., Lucena, L. M., Santos, I. M. L., Silva, S. T., Matos, M. M. S., Neves, J. A., & Rangel, A. H. N. (2024). Characterization of the production system of artisanal cheese makers in Currais Novos, Brazil. Brazilian Journal of Food Technology, 27, e2024026. https://doi.org/10.1590/1981-6723.02624
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Funding: None.
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Edited by
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Associate Editor:
Marco Antonio Trindade.
Publication Dates
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Publication in this collection
09 Dec 2024 -
Date of issue
2024
History
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Received
17 Mar 2024 -
Accepted
16 Sept 2024